10. The second part is to slide the protective wire wrap from the side access door towards the front of the generator. You want to leave about five or six inches of wire, beyond the protective wrap to make your connections.
11. The only way it to make a secure connection is to actually solder the new wire on the skinned back insulation of the D/C 12-volt 8-Amp charging module wires.
Note that I designated the wire with the white tape as my negative (-) wire and the non-marked wire as the positive (+) wire. Solder both wires on to D/C 12-volt 8-amp charging module wires.
Be very, very careful when using this heat gun to shrink your tubing. Specifically, you do not want to damage any of the surrounding wires.
Not everyone is going to have a electrical heat shrink tube kit. It is okay to use a good quality electrical roll of tape to cover the soldered connections. I wanted to do a better job of sealing these connections and just happened to have this heat shrink tube assortment available. So I picked the right size and cut it to length. Then, I just slid the shrink tube over the bare wires and made sure I did not see any bare wire. Please note that a house hold hair dryer does not generate enough heat to shrink the tubing. You need something like a heat gun.
Above: The tie wrap to hold the everything in place
Before you begin to put the D/C 12-volt 8-amp charging module back in place, I used a tie wrap to hold the protective wire wrap and wire in place.
13. Make sure you put the original wires from the D/C 12-volt 8-amp charging module in the correct wiring slots. Positive wire to the (+) mark on the module body and the negative wire to the (-) mark on the module body.
14. Pop the D/C 12-volt, 8-amp charging module back into the face plate. Then put the face plate of the EU2000i back into position and secure with the four screws.
Part 2 – The Hour Meter Hole on the Honda EU2000i Generator Compartment Door
The hard part is done and the rest is a piece of cake. At the beginning of this article, I talked about using a round hour meter because of the location I wanted to put it in. All that is left is to make a hole in that access cover and install the meter.
I also like this hour meter because it has a gasket. Once put through the hole and clamped in place, the gasket gives you some protection against water penetration into the access compartment.
Now the physical depth of the hour meter is 1 1/2 inches, not counting the ¼” male electrical spades sticking out beyond the back of the body. You need to make a hole in your Honda access cover that will give you this depth clearance. The only place with this depth is to the left of the Honda air filter.
Above: Cutting away the plastic strips on the back of the access cover
15. Make an “X” with a magic marker, going corner to corner as shown in the picture. You will need to cut two strips of plastic out of the rear of your cover to ensure you find the center of the space you are cutting a hole in.
16. The “X” is to provide the center of where you are going to drill a pilot hole then follow up with the larger hole for the hour meter.
Please note: You will see a picture of my table top drill press and can do both the pilot hole and the larger 2” hole with a hole saw kit. I own two hole saw kits and accidentally grabbed the wrong hole saw kit on the way to the jamboree seminar in the photographs. I had to borrow the campground’s ½” drill to make the larger hole.
17. You have marked the “X”. Now use a ¼” drill bit to drill from the back of the cover directly in the center of the “X”.