Above: The 8 amp charging module, look close on the module and you will see a + (positive) and a – (negative) where the factory wires are clamped in place
Above: Mikeeee’s writing of the wire color code on the table cloth; white means white wire with red stripe (see picture below)
4. Before you attempt to remove the wires from the D/C 12 volt, 8 amp charging module, look close on the module and you will see a + (positive) and a – (negative) where the factory wires are clamped in place. Write down the wire color that goes to the negative and write down the wire color that goes to the positive. The reason for taking note of the wiring color code is to make sure the positive goes back into the positive hole and the negative goes back into the negative hole.
Above: The wires disconnected from the D/C 12 volt / 8 Amp charging module
5. To remove the wires from the D/C 12 volt, 8 amp charging module, you need to slightly push in those metal tabs next to each wire. While pushing in on the tab, slightly pull at the wire and it should come out easily. You have now easy access to the positive and negative wires. It is these wires that you are going to “tap” into power up the hour meter.
For this demonstration, I used an American Wire fourteen gauge wire to power up my 12 volt D/C hour meter. That is overkill in regards to the wire gauge, but I had an entire spool of this 14 gauge wire, so why not put it to good use.
Above: Skinning back the insulation; copper wire showing above with half inch of insulation missing
6. Now comes the tricky part. You want to skin back the insulation of each wire, but not damage the copper wire itself. Ideally you want between ½ and ¾ inch of copper wiring showing.
Above: The 36” of length and marked with white tape
7. You will need to cut two wires. I did 36” of length and marked one of them with white tape so that I will be able to identify one length of wire from the other. I then made a metal note that the wire with the white tape was going to be my negative wire.
8. Now that you have skinned back the insulation on the two wires feeding the D/C 12 volt and 8 amp charging module, it is now time to install the wires that are going to feed the hour meter. I also determined that the wires had to be protected from chaffing and bought some ¼” protective wire wrap.
9. The easiest way to get the wiring and its protective wrap from the front of the generator to the side access door is to do it in two steps.
First, tape the two wires together. Do not put the wire in the protective wrap at this point. Using a flashlight, you will see a small place on the lower left, down low behind the generator face plate, where you can push the wires towards the access door. Getting these wires to the side access door may take a bit of trial and error, but it can be done relatively easy.
Keep a flashlight handy and at some point you will see the wires that you have pushed from the front of the generator. Once you see the wires at the bottom, use needle nose pliers to grab the wires.
Above: The Protective Wire Wrap in the photos below covering the wires to power up the hour meter