To eliminate both issues and reduce bugs on camper wall, I simply made a wind deflector with a fifteen degree angle by 4-inch drop bolted to the underside of the camper overhang in the position shown, and “Voila”, clear noiseless motoring was my the result.
Audrey Ruccio, Georgia
2008 Ford F450
2008 Host Everest
Our Host Everest came equipped with a large wardrobe closet across the nose of the camper, in the bedroom. Clothing storage was supplied by three hanger bars that ran up and down the sloping roof.
Not being one who likes to spend time and aggravation hanging T-shirts and jeans on clothes hangers, I devised a simple set of hanging wire shelves for the space. There is room under the shelves for storage bins that easily hold jeans, towels, extra bedding, and more.
The shelves required two pieces of wire shelving cut to length, some small chain, s-hooks, and a few wire ties. This installation can be easily removed by anyone who likes the idea of hanging T-shirts on coat hangers.
David Carvalho, Massachusetts
2006 Dodge Ram 3500
2013 Alaskan 8’
In an effort to quickly unload the camper, I came up with a battery box that sits over the wheel well with a connector with 250A rating wired with 2/0 cable. The box is held in place by the lip of the bed and the wheel well. No fasteners are used to hold it in place.
The box currently has two 6V golf cart batteries that are eight years old. When the batteries finally die, the box will be extended to the front edge of the truck and hold four golf cart batteries with a 450AH capacity.
It used to take longer to setup the batteries to load the camper. Now all I have to do is set the battery box in place and load camper.
Once the camper is loaded, I just mate the two connectors. There are also external connector ports where the original camper wiring connects. These ports allow for future expansion such as solar or wind to charge the batteries.
John Stys, Brantford, Ontario
2012 Toyota Tundra
2009 Palomino 1251
The truck bed is too deep to carry the camper. The camper needs to be raised approximately three to four inches. Most people use wood to raise the camper, but the camper overhangs the rear of truck and the tailgate has to be removed because of the sewer connections.
To solve this, I had two very light aluminum beams extended beyond the camper to (a) make a platform to step on and (b) lower the step connection. Between the beams, a drawer is going to be installed for extra storage. Also, a luggage carrier that fits into the trailer hitch goes under the camper for more storage for a generator for our Alaska trip.
Disclaimer: The modifications above are submitted by Truck Camper Magazine readers. It is your responsibility to make sure that any do-it-yourself modification project you undertake is safe, effective, and legal for your situation.