I used pet proof door screen and heavy duty screw in nickel snaps mounted with stainless screws to prevent rusting in case of humidity. It worked out so well. We now use it every time we travel for keeping the dogs off the bed and for keeping all our gear from rolling off the bed.
Above: Nephew using the snapped bed
Pete Weigman, Oregon
2012 Toyota Tundra
2013 Four Wheel Silver Spur Hawk
I have a 2012 Four Wheel Camper Hawk pop-up and find myself off the beaten path quite often. Many times I’m way out in the desert of eastern Oregon or northern Nevada. Gas stations are few and far between out there, so it’s peace of mind to have five extra gallons of gas for the pickup.
First, for this mod, I cut the main power to the camper, and shut off the gas. I bled the gas out of the lines by lighting the stove and letting it burn off. I confirmed that I was not plugged in to any power source. If you are, and spark something while handling the gas, a big boom may happen!
I removed the fascia control panel from the top of my Dometic three-way refrigerator and then removed the door from the unit. Next, I removed the little rubber plugs exposing the refrigerator mounting screws, and unscrewed them completely. My unit had only four mounting screws there, which made the install very solid into the cabinet.
I then used an Exacto knife and removed the silicone seal from the rear of the refrigerator. If you have a silicone seal, it acts like glue surrounding the refrigerator.
I opened up the maintenance panel on the outside. I recommend wiring the access panel up to keep it out of your way. Then I removed the two 12 volt wires going to the control panel noting exactly where they were hooked up. I simply snapped a photo of them with my phone; a picture is worth a thousand words!
After the removal of wires, I could unhook the gas line, being careful not to twist any of the brass tubing or manifolds. I unhooked the moisture drain hose and removed the wind screen covering the burner (if installed).
With somebody inside (recommended) I could now push the unit out a bit making sure I had enough 110v cord pulled through the cabinet to allow the refrigerator to slide about twelve inches forward. The camper’s back-wall is exposed where the nuts are at.
I felt with my fingers by pushing the insulation and seeing where the holes were. When I had them, I just cut away the insulation. Later I used some metal ducting tape to re-cover those holes back up.
With that completed, I removed the factory option rear wall step from behind the refrigerator, caulked the Rotopax mount and bolts a bit, and installed the Rotopax mount.
When doing this, I was being careful to seal off any areas where water or dust could migrate into the camper.