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Todd Rightsell Part 2: A North American Photo Tour

Todd Rightsell  | Thursday, 25 February, 2010   


We continue on Todd Rightsell's dream truck camping adventure across the United States, Canada, and the beautiful wilderness of Alaska. ... ... ... ...


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After we ran part one of Todd Rightsell's photo spectacular, our email box exploded with readers who fell in love with his adventures and long to follow in Todd's truck camper tracks.  For part two, Todd takes us into western Canada, Alaska, and the western United States.


Canada


One of the best things about driving to Alaska is that you have to drive through Canada to get there.  The route most choose, for obvious reasons, is through the Canadian Rockies and up the Alaska Highway. 

The Canadian Rockies are spectacular.  They are unlike any mountains I have ever seen and they seem to go on forever.  I spent about fifteen days in Canada on the way up to Alaska.  The Canadian people are some of the nicest and most helpful people I have ever been around.  The Canadian Rockies are must see for any truck camper.
 

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Left: Lake Minnewonka is just outside of Banff and part of Banff National Park.  As you can see, it’s a mountain lake tucked into a spectacular setting.  There is great hiking and camping around the lake.  As it is just a few miles from Banff, it can get a bit crowded in the summertime.  It's easy to escape the crowds by just walking a few hundred yards down one of countless trails and you're all alone, except for the wildlife!
 
Center: This mountain goat came down a steep hillside and almost right up to me while I was parked at a scenic overlook along the Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper.  I grabbed my camera and nervously tried to get a shot off without spooking him, all the while shaking with excitement.  I saw a lot of mountain goats along the Icefields Parkway.  They often come down to the road and lick the road salt which collects in small indentations where the centerline reflectors are.  Be careful as nobody told them they don't have the right of way!
 
Right: When I saw my camper with this rainbow over it, I knew it was a good sign. For me, it meant I was where I was supposed to be.  I was parked on the edge of Summit Lake in British Columbia.  There is a great little campground there with great views of the surrounding mountains.  This is a don't miss camping spot.  Like so many other spots along the way, I would have been content to spend a few days here, but my schedule didn't allow for that much lollygagging.


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Left: Needless to say, when I crested the hill and saw this view laid out in front of me, I just had to soak it all in.  So I did.  I pulled over and made lunch here, just staring in awe at the Wrangell - St. Elias range sprawled out in front of me.  This range is actually in Alaska, but the photo was taken from the Alaska Highway in the Yukon Territory.  It would be another two days of driving north before I would enter Alaska.  The Wrangells are probably the most rugged mountain range I have ever seen.  There are several peaks over 16,000 feet, and the tallest of these is Mount St. Elias, at 18,008 feet.  Funny though, Mount St. Elias isn’t even visible from any road.  To see it you have to hike for several days through the Wrangells.  The range also makes up the core of America's largest National Park; Wrangell St. Elias.  

Center: This is the famous Lake Louise and Lake Louise Chateau in the background.  It's just a few miles outside of Banff and easily reached by car, so it can get crowded.  Many call this the most beautiful lake in the Canadian Rockies, but that's only because they don't have a truck camper and can't get out to the really good stuff!  Anyway, I hiked from the Chateau up to the Tea House, about three and a half miles up from the lake.  Uphill every step!  I made it, but just barely, and then I realized I still had to get back down.
 
Right: This is the Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper National Parks in Canada.  It's a spectacular drive.  Every guide book I have ever seen says it is one of the best drives in North America.  I agree.  It winds through some of the biggest mountains I have ever seen, and right past the Columbia Icefields, one of the largest and most accessible icefields still remaining on the planet.  If you have the time, get out and visit at the Icefields visitor center and take the bus out on to the ice.  You won't regret it.  


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Left: Driving along the Icefields Parkway and Trans-Canadian Highway is literally like driving through a zoo.  Wildlife is everywhere.  Nonetheless, I was pretty shocked to see this big old mountain goat right along the edge of the Icefields Parkway. This is one of my favorite shots.  I have to admit, I wasn't the first to see him.  He was already stopping traffic, but I parked and ran over and got a few great shots of two old males as they climbed a sheer cliff right before my eyes!  Straight up.
 
Center: Here is more of the unbelievable scenery along the Icefields Parkway.  It just keeps getting better and better the further you drive.  This waterfall was just outside of Jasper National Park and near the northern end of the Parkway.  It was early spring and the weather had been warm and sunny.  There was no shortage of water and nature was putting on a real show!  This was one of my favorite stops along the Parkway and it's just a few steps off the road!  Credit goes to the Canadians who laid out the Parkway perfectly.  It winds past some of the most spectacular scenery in the Rockies.  You could spend a lifetime there and never see it all.
 
Right: At last, after three weeks of driving, I finally made it to the start of the Alaska Highway.  I had to wait in line for two other campers to get their photos before I could pull up.  From here there is only one way to go to Alaska.  No kidding.  There’s one road that takes you there; the Alaska Highway.  While there are a few detour loops, there is just one way to get there.  I was pretty excited.  Now it was only 1,700 miles of frost heaves and two lane, often gravel, road to the Alaska border.  I figured four days, tops.  Man was I wrong.  I spent one whole day going thirty miles per hour due to the frost heaves and construction delays.  On the Alcan, forty-five to fifty miles per hour is making good time.  So the four days tops turned into about six days.  But again, worth the effort.  


Alaska

One of the main reasons I purchased my truck and camper was to see Alaska.  I have wanted to go for years, so I decided that my third major trip in the camper would be Alaska.  That would give me two years to break in the rig, learn how it works, and get my camping pattern down pat.  Believe me, it is well worth the cost and effort it takes to get Alaska.  This was literally the trip of a lifetime for me.  I wouldn't trade the experience for anything in the world.  If you already own a truck camper then you already have a great appreciation for the natural world, and Alaska is the pinnacle.  Just do it!


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Left: This is the Arctic Circle signpost on the Dalton Highway, which is also called the Haul Road.  This is one of a handful of spots in North America where you can actually drive to the Arctic Circle.  The marker is approximately sixty miles North of the Yukon River.  This was taken on the way up to Prudhoe Bay/Deadhorse; the start of the Alaskan Pipeline.
 
Center: This is me at the Arctic Circle marker on the Dalton Highway.  This spot is over 5,000 miles from my home in North Carolina.  Talk about a road trip!  The weather here was quite warm, but the mosquitos were terrible!  This picture was actually taken by a nice couple in another truck camper that pulled up just as I was fumbling with my tripod.  Truck campers are the nicest folks in the world.
 
Right: Prudhoe Bay.  The end of the road in North America.  An amazing little oil town on the tundra!  As you can see from the looks of my camper, the trip up is pretty brutal.  The truck and camper will never be the same, but they are both better off for having made the trip.  I know I am.  It's just a shade under 500 miles up to Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay from Fairbanks, and about 450 miles of that is gravel.  Washboard gravel.  Teeth rattling gravel.  But don't worry, when you get there, you get treated to the luxury of the Arctic Caribou Inn!
 

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Left: This is the first sign you pass on the way out of Deadhorse headed back south on the Haul Road.  The Haul Road is the same road which was featured on Ice Road Truckers recently, only they drive it in the winter.  Like the sign says, there is only one gas station along the way at Coldfoot, about halfway back to Fairbanks.  As my range in the truck with the camper is only like 275 miles under ideal circumstances, I took along five gallons of gas just in case.  It took me sixteen straight hours to drive back down to Fairbanks non-stop all night.  Or was it day?
 
Center: Another shot of the amazing scenery on the Haul Road.  This is some of the prettiest and most remote country in Alaska.  The road was constructed in the 1970's to facilitate construction of the Alaska Pipeline, which runs alongside the road for most of the way.  This picture was actually taken in the middle of the night on the way back down from Prudhoe.
 
Right: Ed hooked a lunker.  I got skunked!  His wife let him fly up for two weeks to do some fishing and exploring.  This was taken on the Klutina River during a guided King Salmon fishing trip.  Ed caught this forty-five pound monster in about six inches of water right off the gravel bar.  I couldn't believe it; I had never seen a fish that big come out of fresh water, especially six inches of water.  Needless to say, I am still hearing about that day and probably will from now on!
 

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Left: This is a humpback whale in Kenai Fjords National Park just off the coast of Seward Alaska.  This was the first time I have ever seen a whale and I was amazed at how close they would allow the tour boat to approach.  They were hard to get photos of because you never knew where one would surface and when.  I was lucky to get such a good shot of this one.  The Kenai Fjords cruise was one of the best things I did in Alaska.  To see Alaska from the water gives you a whole new perspective on this surreal landscape.
 
Center: Bears are everywhere in Alaska.  This was taken during a bear viewing trip to Wolverine Creek.  The place ought to be called Bear Creek, as they were thick here.  We flew in on a float plane 100 miles or so from Soldotna, and landed on a large lake.  This was the first time I have ever landed on water.  The experience was incredible.  Then it was into a small boat and off to the mouth of the lake, Wolverine Creek.  Just as we pulled up, this monster poked his head out of the woods and gave us a real show.  Our guide piloted the small boat to within about fifty feet or so of him, and this big fellow let us snap pictures for a good five to ten minutes before he disappeared in the thick brush.  Amazing animals.

Right: This is me in the Arctic Ocean.  Yes, it was cold.  No, I didn't see any polar bears.  The Haul Road ends in Deadhorse. Technically, thats twelve miles from the ocean.  To get out to the ocean, you have to take the oilfield tour that takes you through town and shows you all the sights.  I'll just say it's interesting.  Then, the driver takes you through a control gate and out over the tundra to the Arctic Ocean.  He pulled the bus up on to a large gravel beach, turned around in his seat, and proceeded to give us a lecture on polar bear safety.  Half the bus thought he was joking.  When he pulled out the shotgun and opened the bus door, reality set in.  He told us if we heard a gunshot or a whistle to run as fast as we could for the bus!  Well, no bears, just cold water.  Really cold water.  It was about forty degrees air temperature and the wind was blowing at thirty to forty miles per hour.  The sea temperature was thirty-four.  Nonetheless, we had one brave girl on our bus load of twenty-five or so that stripped down to her bathing suit and went running in until she was completely underwater.  Thank goodness the bus driver had towels available for all of us and the bus had a great heater!  

Washington State

Many people think of Washington State and they think of rain, and for good reason.  I had a lot of rain while I was there.  My Washington tour consisted of driving up the entire coast from south to north, ending in Neah Bay and Cape Flattery, the most northwestern point in the lower forty-eight states.  Then I headed back east along the Straits of Juan de Fuca, which separate the United States from Canada.  This was a good opportunity to see Olympic National Park before heading further east to see Cascades National Park.  Washington is a beautiful state with a lot to offer.


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Left: This is one of the many fantastic views along the Washington coast.  This was taken at a scenic overlook not too far from Olympic National Park.  As you can see, the weather was a bit rainy, but if you can't stand a little rain, Washington State is not for you.

Center: Most folks don't realize that Washington State has one of the largest rainforests in the world and the only one in the United States.  It's called the Hoh Rainforest and most of it is in the boundaries of Olympic National Park.  Because of the constant fog and rain in northwest Washington, this rainforest thrives.  Walking through this forest is like walking back in time.  I got lucky and was able to get a glimpse of two of the resident elk which live near the Hoh Visitor Center.  I was a bit scared when I first heard them walking through the brush.  I knew it was something big.  When I saw brown, all I could think of was bear!  I froze, and it turns out it was two elk.  I don't know if they ever even saw me, but I saw them.
 
Right: This was taken near Cascades National Park in northern Washington State.  This is some rugged country and the roads are some of the steepest I have ever encountered.  This was taken in June and you can see all the snow still visible, even at lower elevations.  If you visit Cascades Park, I would recommend going a bit later in the year, maybe late July or August.  A lot of the park was still under several feet of snow in June.  There are some great day hikes here, and some beautiful mountain lakes.


Oregon Coast

Oregon has a fantastic coastline, when you can see it.  It's often foggy or rainy, but when the sun does shine, it rivals anything California has to offer.  I drove all the way up the Oregon coast.  It took just two days, not counting the detour over to Crater Lake.  Oregon has great state parks, and they have a lot of them.  The parks are every few miles along the coast, and each one has something different to offer.  The parks that offer campgrounds have electric and water hookups.
 

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Left: This was taken at Cape Meares Lighthouse on the Oregon coast near Tillamook.  This is a small lighthouse along the coast that offers spectacular views of the Pacific.  There is a small park there with boardwalks which go right down to the cliffs overlooking the ocean.  During this short walk, I saw all kinds of birds on the adjacent rock outcroppings.   It was a nice little place to visit.
 
Center: This is a shot of the actual lighthouse at Cape Meares.  Unfortunately, it was a bit cloudy that day and the picture is not the best, but you get the idea.  This lighthouse is still in use today, although the original lens has been replaced by a flashing light and a caretaker is no longer necessary.  The light sits about 200 feet up from the sea.  During the right time of year, you can often see whales migrating along the coast here.
 
Right: The Columbia River dumps into the Pacific at the Oregon and Washington State border.  The coastline there is very flat, and there are some great beaches in this area.  This shipwreck lies on the beach at Fort Stevens, which is another very nice state park, and is but one of the nearly 2,000 ships claimed in this area over the last 200 years.  The Columbia River Bar, where the river dumps into the sea, is known as the Graveyard of the Pacific.  As I stood there looking at this huge wreck, I tried to imagine what force would have been needed to cause that ship to come to rest here.
 

Crater Lake

Next on the list was Crater Lake National Park, which I had never even heard of prior to planning this trip.  It turns out Crater Lake National Park is one of the best kept secrets of the west.  It's a bit off the beaten path, but worth the drive.  I was there in early June, which is considered early in the season for Crater Lake. There was plenty of snow still around, and the place was almost deserted.  The main road that rings the crater and goes all the way around the lake was closed, so I could only see the lake from just two vantage points.  At nearly 2,000 feet deep, it is the deepest lake in the United States.  The lake is filled with rainwater and snow melt accumulated over hundreds of years.  It is totally cut off from the surrounding lakes and streams; having no inlet or outlet, which makes the water extremely clear.  The Native Americans considered this place to be sacred.


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Left: After a long drive through some pretty remote mountains, I arrived at Crater Lake National Park.  I was glad to be there but, unfortunately, I was told the campground wasn't yet open.  From the gate it is several miles to the lake up some pretty steep hills.  I drove up and up and up and the snow cover got thicker and thicker.  By the time I reached the parking area and visitor center, it was literally feet deep.  There was one entrance to the visitor's center which had been dug out and they were open for questions!  I have never seen so much snow anywhere in the month of June as here.
 
Center: This was taken from one of the two accessible view points on the ring road.  The rest of the road was closed as it hadn't yet been plowed.  The water in Crater Lake is truly amazing.  It is the deepest color blue I have ever seen. Mesmerizing.  In the summer, you can take a boat out to Wizard Island in the middle of the lake and hike the trail to the top.  They say the view from there is fantastic.  I can only imagine, as when I was there the boat was still in dry storage for the winter.  Maybe next time.
 
Right: In June, Crater Lake is still a winter wonderland. You can see from the snow piled up here that they get a lot of snow.  This was taken in the Visitor Center parking area as I was leaving the park.  As the campground was still under several feet of snow, it wasn't open, and I was forced to drive back down the mountain to find a forest service campground.  Things happen for a reason.  That night I got lucky and found a great campground right on the edge of a huge lake with a magnificent view of the mountains.  Another great western sunset.


 TODD RIGHTSELL'S TRUCK CAMPER RIG
Truck: 2005 GMC 2500HD, crew cab, single rear wheel, short bed, 4x4, diesel
Camper: 2005 Northstar Arrow 8.5
Tie-downs and Turnbuckles: Happijac
Suspension Enhancements: N/A
Gear: XM Radio